July 13, 2023
Traditional doesn’t have to mean boring — and certainly not when it comes to scent. Here are some age-old favourites and how they’re being translated for our modern day fragrances.
Vanilla
The history: Despite it feeling very old-worldly, vanilla has only been used in modern perfumery for just over 100 years, its first sighting in Guerlain’s Jicky. Notoriously versatile, it’s a common find in fragranced because it works with so much – citrus, woods, florals — all of it. Vanilla is also a known mood enhancer, has a calming effect on the wearer, and despite its sweetness can add a lot of warmth to a fragrance.
The new way: Perfumers across the world continue to use vanilla to amplify their fragrances (bringing creaminess to citrus or a sweet edge to the woodier, resinous scents) but a fun take is to hero the scent even more by focusing on that as the heart, or playing around with it in more gourmand (foodie) scents.
Try it in: Demeter Fragrance Library Vanilla Cake Batter, $32.95; Tokyo Milk Let Them Eat Cake, $79
Oud
The history: The original bougie fragrance ingredient, it’s both rare and expensive. That’s because it doesn’t just come from any old tree, it’s from the resinous heartwood of the agar tree, but only those that have have been infected by a special fungus that creates the resin. Obviously, not every tree has it, hence the rarity. The scent is rich and warm, heady and opulent. On its own it can be… a lot for the nose because of its rich intensity.
The new way: To counteract the woody, earthy richness, newer takes pair oud with florals which both lightens it and complements the florals, anchoring it.
Try it in: The Perfume Oil Company Rose Oud, $34.95; Urban Apothecary Oudh Geranium Room Spray, $65
Sandalwood
The history: The use of sandalwood in fragrances is steeped in history — some say it’s been used as a scent ingredient for over 4000 years. Indian sandalwood, aka: Santalum album, has been traditionally used as an anchoring base note because it is notoriously long-lasting with a woody yet creamy smell. And, it’s even known to have calming properties too. It’s a key note in many iconic, heady fragrances including Guerlain’s Shalimar and Chanel’s Bois des Iles and is a truly unisex smell.
The new way: Often paired with big florals like rose, or smokier scents like tobacco, we’re seeing it paired with sweeter scents too for more unexpected twist.
Try it in: The Perfume Oil Company Sweet Sandalwood, $34.95; Tokyo Milk Honey and The Moon Mini EDP, $18
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